the covered passages

Paris’ covered passages are close to the main tourist attractions, yet cleverly tucked away.  Constructed in the early 19th century, the covered passages are the predecessor to shopping arcades or even the modern day mall.  To a certain extent, they are hiding in plain sight.  It is easy to miss these structures and the beautiful enclosed environment they create.  It was not until I actually moved to the city and got a bit lost one day that I stumbled upon Gallerie Vivienne.  Imagine my delight; it’s like finding a secret portal.

Originally, Paris had roughly 150 covered passages – all pedestrian walkways.  They were full of shops, cafes, restaurants – places to see and be seen.  Keeping socialites and shoppers out of the damp cold weather was a ‘modern’ convenience.  Expansive glass windows were carefully curated to display the must-have goods of the day.  Roughly two-dozen of these indoor promenades still exist.  They are beautiful monuments to former lifestyles of the ladies and gentlemen of Paris.

The demise of the covered passages stemmed from Emperor Napoléon III’s public works program in the second half of the 19th century.  He launched a demolition/reconstruction effort to rid the city of disease.  Medieval  streets and housing structures considered overcrowded or unhealthy were leveled.  Under the direction of Georges-Eugène Haussmann, Napolean III’s city engineer/architect, the covered passageways fell victim to the city’s modernization.  Streets were widened, public sewers installed, gardens and squares constructed across the city.   The city was opened up and rebuilt to create Paris’ modern boulevards.  Coincidentally, Napoléan’s public works program helped provide a strong military defense – think troops marching in procession down wide boulevards.

Passage des Panoramas

 

Today, the surviving passages function in a similar way as they did when they were first created.  Shops of every type line the corridors, cafés and galleries are sprinkled throughout as well.  If you are not captured by the antique signage, lighting fixtures and architecture, you will be captured by the shopping experience and cuisine options.

Paris has much to offer its visitors.  It is often a fight for the time and attention of individuals visiting the city.  The covered passageways are scattered through the right bank and can be tricky to find.  One way you can ensure you see the passages and enjoy the history of the Paris is to join a tour with Corey Frye, A French Frye in Paris.  Having recently taken the covered passages tour, Corey narrated a 2 hour walk through the passages spanning the 2nd, 3rd and 9th arrondissements.  The passages on their own are stunning, but Corey is able to highlight details and design insights which make the experience memorable.  It’s a great way to spend an afternoon.

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2018-09-02T12:19:02+00:00 January 28th, 2018|Categories: Featured, La Cuisine, La Ville, Uncategorized|Tags: |12 Comments

12 Comments

  1. Anne Morosky January 28, 2018 at 12:14 pm - Reply

    Very cool! I love reading your posts. I’ve only been to Paris once, in 9th grade, by myself. I hated it (for various reasons). I think the biggest part was that I was too young to appreciate all it has to offer! Reading your blog is giving me insight. I might have to return….

    • Gretchen January 28, 2018 at 4:43 pm - Reply

      You should return, Anne! This city is so fun to discover.

  2. Heather January 28, 2018 at 12:49 pm - Reply

    Wow. How cool. And an accidental surprise. That’s awesome.

    • Gretchen January 28, 2018 at 4:45 pm - Reply

      They were great! I need to find the ones we did not get to see on the tour 🙂

  3. Jen Nohl January 28, 2018 at 1:59 pm - Reply

    Great find, Gretchen! I can’t wait to hear what you discover next.

    • Gretchen January 28, 2018 at 4:47 pm - Reply

      🙂

  4. Rosalie Waerig January 28, 2018 at 2:51 pm - Reply

    A charming walk steeped in history sounds glorious.

  5. Julie Cohen January 29, 2018 at 12:23 am - Reply

    The tiles on the ground are fantastic!

    • Gretchen January 29, 2018 at 9:41 am - Reply

      They are so beautiful, Julie. Some of the passages have mosaic tile work that has survived better than others, bit you get the picture of what it must have been like…

  6. Karen January 31, 2018 at 6:20 am - Reply

    My fave post so far!! Loved reading about the history.

  7. Paul Costa February 3, 2018 at 7:23 pm - Reply

    This is really amazing. I’ve not been to Paris since I was small but my appetite is certainly up now!

    • Gretchen February 3, 2018 at 7:47 pm - Reply

      Paul, it’s a really cool city. Paris is still steeped in tradition and history, but there is an emerging vibe of entrepreneurship and innovation which is amazing. I’m having fun watching it all come to life.

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